The searing truth about sun damage–and how you might be applying your sunscreen all wrong.

Sunspots, fine lines and dull skin tone are all classic signs that your complexion has probably caught a few too many rays. But most of us still don’t seem to be able to spot the sunspots.

Sun damage does not look the same on everyone, says Dr. Renée A. Beach, a dermatologist and founder of Dermatelier on Avenue in Toronto, but there are some telltale signs. “If we’re talking about brown or black skin, you might see darker or lighter patches and post-acne changes that linger longer because the process of inflammation caused by the sun and acne activates melanocytes to produce more melanin, resulting in deeper brown tones,” says Dr. Beach. Rosacea-prone people of all skin tones will notice even more redness in response to sun exposure. Aside from the immediate redness of a burn, folks with fairer skin may see more freckles and tan lines, too.

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Unfortunately, a lot of us still view a summer glow as “healthy looking,” and worse, helpful. A recent U.S. survey found that 47 percent of adults were either unsure, or incorrectly believed, that a “base tan” was not harmful and would even prevent sunburns. “I want to be really clear about this,” says Dr. Beach. “A base tan is synonymous with base damage.”

Each bit of sun damage results in skin cells that reproduce with errors, which accumulate over time to form mutations that can result in cancer. A great skin-care regimen, with the right serums and moisturizers (and/or in-office treatments with a dermatologist), can minimize some of the visible signs of sun damage. “But you can’t reverse or reduce DNA damage caused by the sun,” says Dr. Beach.

“We wait so long in Canada for summer, so I can’t blame people who want to bask in the sun when it’s finally here, but let’s go about it in the right way,” she says. That means regular and sufficient applications of broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum rating of SPF 30, seeking shade, avoiding overexposure during peak hours and covering up with Upf-rated clothing to protect your skin from UVA and UVB rays. Unfortunately, a lot of us still view a summer glow as “healthy looking,” and worse, helpful.